“Hipster” – cum sa te imbraci cât mai urât posibil

30 septembrie 2008

Extern, Pulsul Afacerilor

 
Sa te imbraci „hipster” inseamna sa dezgropi tot ce e mai rau in moda ultimilor 20 de ani si sa fii teribil de „fashion”. Se intâmpla deja de câtiva ani, mai ales in SUA, dar 2008 poate fi decretat anul introducerii in circuitul italian a unora dintre hainele considerate pâna in urma cu câtiva ani absolut interzise.
 
De exemplu, sapca se poarta cu cozorocul ridicat: este „trucker hat”. Odata cu bereta bicolora s-a nascut miscarea „hipster”, moda in numele careia totul este permis. Trebuie insa sa respecti trei reguli simple: hipster-ul este ironic, traieste cu lejeritate si uraste sa fie calificat drept hipster.
 
Potrivit „Urban Dictionary”, cel mai autorizat dictionar online al limbajului urban, hipster, care deriva din termenul slang „hip”, cu alte cuvinte „informat despre ultima moda”, este o subcultura a unor persoane cu vârsta cuprinsa intre 20 si 30 de ani care cred in gândirea independenta, anticonformism, creativitate, arta si muzica indie.
 
Nascut la inceputul lui 2000 in cartierul Williamsburg din New York, si raspândit apoi in lumea intreaga, hipsterism-ul reuneste tineri educati care lucreaza adesea in lumea artei, a muzicii si a modei, dar care refuza canoanele estetice ale culturii din SUA chiar si sexualitatea prestabilita, potrivit ziarului italian La Repubblica. Nu sunt radicali sic, nici bohemieni si nici neo-liberali.
 
Ceea ce deosebeste aceste grupuri este absenta unor intentii politice. Nu revendica nicio apartenenta politica, pentru ca sunt in mod voit independenti de orice regula. Nu vor sa fie catalogati si eludeaza actualitatea, exceptând evident muzica si moda. Singura religie pe care toti hipsterii o recunosc ca atare sunt pantalonii strâmti. Fetele ii imbraca pe cei super slim, strânsi pâna la genunchi, iar baietii se straduie sa imbrace modele feminine.
 
Restul look-ului este alcatuit din putine haine, minimum posibil si demodate. „Trucker hat” este recomandat baietilor, in culorile cele mai pop si posibil cu ceva inscriptionari. Fie ca hipsterul are sau nu probleme cu vederea, este obligatoriu sa poarte o pereche de ochelari imensi care amintesc de modelul Wayfarer de la Ray-Ban. Important este sa fie de vedere deoarece cei de soare sunt considerati prea „omologati”. Pentru baieti este obligatoriu sa-si expuna mustatile.
 
Dar si aici este valabila regula ironiei si lejeritatii. Taietura trebuie sa fie ca in anii '80: subtire, scurta si nu deasa. Mai mult a la Burt Reynolds decât a la Tom Selleck. Pentru femei, parul ciufulit si aparent neingrijit, eventual purtat cu o bentita. Imposibil sa omiti t-shirt-urile. Teoretic ar trebui imbracate cele „vintage”, cu inscrisuri care amintesc rock band-urile anilor '70 si '80.
 
Asa cum dicteaza New York-ul, sursa de inspiratie pentru hipster-ii lumii, si camasile in carouri intra acum in garderoba lor: flausate, precum cele tipice miscarii „grunge” din anii '90, dar tot in varianta foarte strâmte. Au fost deja vazute la o „icoana” a genului precum supermodelul Agyness Deyn. În ceea ce priveste pantofii, fie ei de barbati sau de dama, regulile sunt doua: talpa ultraplata si stil minimal.
 
Sunt potriviti cei de la All-Star Shoes, sau Toms Shoes, un gen de espadrile fashion si in spirit de solidaritate – la fiecare pereche cumparata o pereche este daruita unui copil sarac – precum si balerinii. Recent, in garderoba hipster-ului au intrat si baschetii model Reebok de la inceputul anilor '90. Pentru a completa look-ul este perfect cardiganul strâmt (unele par chiar intrate la apa) si o kefiah care, in mod voit lipsita de orice semnificatie politica, are culori de la violet la rosu sau fantezi, cu inimioare si fluturi.
 
Îmbracati astfel si in cautarea disperata a unui stil indie, hipsterii au cazut, din pacate, in inamicul cel mai de temut al lor, conformismul si catalogarea. Au ajuns una dintre multele expresii ale creativitatii juvenile, la fel ca punk-istii sau emo. Muzica, moda si societatea i-au inchis in cusca numeroaselor definitii. Exista hipster rap, hipster hop si hipster funk. Exista hipster-parinti, de preferinta cupluri multiculturale care ii duc pe hipster-copii ai lor la concerte si expozitii. Mai exista si hipstermobile, biciclete cu roata fixa fara frâna si schimbator. S-ar putea continua la nesfârsit, pâna la hipsterie.

 

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5 Comentarii

  1. Andrada

    De ce oare nu ne facem toti o uniforma? De ce sa ne mai chinuim cu stiluri, moda, arta, etc.?! Fiecare se imbraca asa cum simte. Oricum, hipsterul nu va fi niciodata influientat de parerea celor din jur. Asa ca, spor la astfel de articole in continuare!:)

  2. asdfghjkl

    conversi de al All Star si tricouri cu trupele anilor ’80 -’90…. Asta e rock. Nu cred ca e ceva rau in asta. Am vazut o hipsterita. Arata ok. Mi-a placut tunsoarea (era chiar aranjata) dar ochelarii dunt oribili. Raman la trupele mele :X tot pe GNR ii iubesc, pe Mother Monster si pe altii. Fiecare cu stilul lui, dar sa nu exagereze.

  3. klaudiu

    ce-i cu articolul asta ? se cunoaste ca inca nu am iesit din comunism ;)

  4. @klaudiu

    @klaudiu: …si curge apa-n lift. Care-i legatura? se vede ca esti probabil un hipster frustrat sau ceva…

  5. Pepenetz

    Din partea mea… nu conteaza cat de lunga-i freza… Da’ daca domniile lor, hipstericii, asociaza apucaturile vestimentare cu frustrarile copilariei nefericite si ajung sa dauneze mediului inconjurator prin nesimtire, “miserupizm”, productie de gunoi si zgomot ce dezvaluie micimea intelectuala etc., atunci… sa ma ierte Dumnezeu, da’ sa se duca in Hipsteria lor si sa ne lase sa ne traim “insipidele” vieti…

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